CUISINE &VINS accompanied Michel Rolland and Enrique Chrabolowsky in the International launch of the third edition of the book Wines of Argentina.
After an intense workday in which the great French enologist Michel Rolland tasted 360 wines included in the 2008 edition of the book Wines of Argentina, his comments were conclusive: I am really surprised, I have tasted almost all of the top level Argentine wines in the market and I have found very few (I can count on one hand) that I haven’t liked.
The country has grown in quality in an extraordinary way, perhaps like no other in the world. Some years ago, when I tasted for the earlier editions, the wines that weren’t great quality comprised over 15%. Now they don’t reach 2%.
It is a significant advance that makes me very happy. In what constitutes a historic day for Argentinean wine production, Michel Rolland held a mega tasting that was followed and confirmed by hundreds of enologists, journalists, wine makers and special guests that came from different parts of the country and from abroad for the event that was held in the Park Hyatt Mendoza.
He tasted and described more than 360 wines, belonging to 123 wineries that will integrate the third edition of the well known book Wines of Argentina, that he will sign along with journalist and CUISINE&VINS columnist in Mendoza, Enrique Chrabolowsky.
When some journalists asked him if it were possible to try so many wines in one single day, Rolland explained: It is my daily routine as a consultant, visiting some 6 wineries per day, there are times that I have to try more wines than these, as I determine the cuts, the aging in barrels and other questions that enologists and wine makers usually ask me. It is training over the course of many years that with time allows me to better discover the virtues and defects.
The only thing that I request and require is silence because if not I can’t concentrate. The wines that are up for evaluation are in the $7 to $400 per bottle range; in other words, a very complete sampling of our country’s offerings in the internal and foreign markets.
In this sense, Rolland said that these types of tasting, totally unusual in the rest of the world, have the virtue of being a sort of photography of that happens from the point of view of the wines, in which it is possible to perceive a very complete and current vision in one single day. I would really like to repeat this experience-he said-in all the producing countries, but the conditions aren’t right to do so.
The tasting has a rather original development, as it is public and those present can taste all of the wines simultaneously.
The final result was very positive and only reaffirms the good that Argentina is having in terms of its wine, occupying more and more spots worldwide, competing head to head with well-known brands.
Slowly, they are achieving status of wines chosen for their quality and not for their low prices.
The highest quality of samples tasted corresponded to Malbec, a variety in which Argentina is first, without discussion. There was excellent Cabernet Sauvignon and various blends from different varietal bases that were frankly wonderful. There were also very complete wines seen in the categories of Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo, Bonarda and Petit Verdot. Among the whites, some Chardonnay with wood, fresh Sauvignon Blanc, and some Pinot Grigio stood out. According to Rolland, Argentina is still lacking in a good Syrah (although they are getting better and better). We will have to just wait.
The book. Wines of Argentina is the book written by Rolland along with the journalist Enrique Chrabolowsky of Mendoza with a prologue done by Robert Parker (jr.) that reached its third edition in 2008, with its first two editions totally sold out. Not unusual in the book world.
To the two previous editions, where the volumes were in English and Spanish, now is added a new version in Portuguese. This book emerged from the important presence of Argentinean wines in Brazil, with a public eager to know about what they were consuming. That is why a team of specialized translators on the subject has been hired and an important company in the wine business will be in charge of distribution.
Executed by a team of professionals that regularly tour the country, the new book will refresh all its photography and text; it will include new chapters and will offer a totally up to date vision of the principal wineries and their best wines.
The wineries that participate in the book are chosen based on the quality of their products and each one of them, without notion of its size or economic importance, has the same allotted space. In this was independence and credibility is assured. Wines of Argentina will be in the street in April of 2008 and will have national and international distribution.
Source: Cuisine & Vins
